STRAIGHT TALK ABOUT HAIR REMOVAL

From the beginning of human history, we have been removing hair for various reasons. Evidence of prehistoric flint shaving implements and clamshell tweezers have been uncovered. In ancient Egypt it was considered unclean and barbaric to have body hair. The Egyptian women were scrupulous bathers who removed body hair by shaving with razors or rubbing hairs off with pumice stones. Men, women and children shaved their heads bald to be covered with elaborate wigs, mainly to prevent lice infestations and other skin infections.
There are two main categories of hair removal: temporary and permanent. Temporary methods include shaving, waxing, tweezing and threading. Shaving, the most common temporary method, simply cuts the hair shaft at the skin surface. Waxing, tweezing and threading remove the entire hair shaft, the bulb and some of the follicle itself. The repeated trauma causes an injury response of increased blood flow to the area, nourishing the structures that make hair grow. I can assure you that the myth is not a myth; these tweezing methods do stimulate hair growth.
Permanent hair removal methods include electrolysis and laser hair removal. Since 1875, women and men have used electrolysis. The process uses a thin metal probe to deliver current into the hair follicle. Some believe that the follicle is ‘electrocuted’, but that is not the case. The current combines with saline in the body, forming sodium hydroxide, a very alkaline substance. This caustic substance causes a chemical destruction of the cells in the growth zone. This treatment is done one follicle at a time, and if done correctly, each follicle only needs to be treated once. Another invention still marketed today uses ‘electric tweezers’ in an attempt to remove hair. These devices cannot possible deliver the correct amount of current to the right place and are not effective.

“The principle of laser hair removal is simple: a specific wavelength of light is attracted to a specific target color.”

In the 1960’s dermatologists first used lasers to cut tissue and remove skin lesions. These used continous beams and were difficult to control, causing collateral damage where it wasn’t wanted. Next, pulsed lasers were developed which were easier to control and infinately more precise. The 1980’s brought the ability of lasers to target specific colors. The pulsed dye laser was invented, which targets veins and red spots. It was then that researchers began experimenting with lasers for hair removal.
The principle behind laser hair removal is simple: a specific wavelength of light is attracted to a specific target color. Melanin in the hair shaft and lower follicle absorb the energy, which rapidly turns to heat. The duration of the laser pulse is measured in milliseconds allowing only the target structures to be heated. This rapid heating damages the follicle’s ability to produce hair cells. During treatments, the skin is protected with a cooling spray or ice-cold air. This also serves to reduce any discomfort. Not all the follicles in a treatment area are producing hair at the same time; this is why several treatments are required. Treated hairs are gradually shed over a two-week period after which the patient enjoys months of being hair free. When previously dormant follicles begin to produce hair, it’s time for the next appointment. All body areas can be treated and most patients who have been shaving for years are surprised to learn how easy it is to permanently remove unwanted hair.
With today’s lasers we are able to treat all skin types safely and effectively. This fact makes laser hair removal currently the most popular cosmetic procedure in the world.

LASERS AND THEIR EFFECTS ON LIVING TISSUE

The word laser is actually an acronym standing for Light Amplification by Stimulated Emission of Radiation. The first working laser was developed in 1960 and was described as “a solution looking for a problem”.
Visible light, which we need to see objects in everyday life, appears white. This light is a combination of many different wavelengths all bouncing around in different directions spreading out as they travel from the source. Two of the distinct features of laser light are that it has only one specific wavelength and that the light travels in intense parallel lines and does not spread out.
Each laser has a special material inside called a medium which is stimulated to a higher atomic state with some type of energy, usually a bright flashlamp. The type of medium determines the wavelength of light produced by the laser. For example, when stimulated, the Alexandrite crystal produces light at a wavelength of 755nanometers (nm) and the precious stone Ruby produces light at 694nm.

“When using lasers to remove hair, the target color is brown melanin in the hair shaft.”

Because the light produced is a specific color or wavelength, each laser also has a target color that it is attracted to. This is always different from the color of the laser light. When using lasers to remove hair, the target color is dark brown (the melanin of the hair shaft). For vein removal, a laser that targets the red color of blood inside the vein is used. In the case of facial resurfacing or the ‘laser peel’, a laser wavelength is used that is attracted only to the water in the top layers of skin. In each case, light energy turns to heat inside the skin which damages the target to produce a clinical effect.
During the past decade, the use of lasers by aesthetic medicine practitioners and dermatologists worldwide has grown tremendously. It is exciting to realize that today’s technologies are just the beginning.

Dermabrasion is a process whereby the outer layers of skin are removed mechanically, allowing new skin to be seen. The resurfacing of facial skin was first documented in the early 1900s. However, the ancient Egyptians used a type of sandpaper to remove tattoos and acne scars thousands of years earlier. We continue to use similar techniques today for some of the same indications.

The dermis consists of two layers – the upper papillary dermis, which is the thinner more superficial layer, and the deeper reticular dermis. It is in the deep dermis that collagen fibers and elastin are found. Collagen gives our skin strength and structure, and elastin allows it to stretch, giving it flexibility. Both of these compounds diminish with age. Irregular arrangements of collagen and elastin along with decreased cell renewal are responsible for this.

In traditional dermabrasion, the patient is sedated for pain control and skin is frozen to create a firm working surface. The surgeon uses rotating diamond disks of varying grits to abrade the skin to a certain point. Proper aftercare is extremely important to avoid infection. An added benefit is that the skin can tighten during the healing process.

This wounding prompts new collagen to form, and it is this healing process that produces smoother, firmer and younger-looking skin. This is a surgical procedure and should be performed only by a plastic surgeon or dermatologist familiar with the technique. It is possible to remove medium to deep wrinkles, deep acne scars and resurface sun damaged skin with this technique.

“Microdermabrasion is useful for patients with fine lines and wrinkles and medium-depth acne scars.”

Another related treatment is called microdermabrasion. This technique does not require sedation. A small hand-held device delivers micro-fine crystals to the surface of the skin. Then the crystals are removed along with dead skin cells using suction. Afterward, the skin is treated with a protective ointment. This technique is useful for patients who have fine lines and wrinkles and medium-depth acne scars.

One of the newest methods for skin resurfacing is called the Dermafile System. By using special files coated with crushed diamonds, the technician is able to safely remove brown discoloration, fine wrinkles and make acne scars less noticeable. The practitioner is able to adjust the intensity of the treatment based on the patient’s needs. The treatment takes an hour, and most patients describe it as relaxing. A series of treatments is recommended for best results.

Along with chemical peels and lasers, skin resurfacing techniques can improve the look and feel of your skin.

 

Damage to our skin caused by the sun is called photoaging, literally aging caused by light. How does solar radiation change the skin? The sun emits a full spectrum of visible light. It also gives off invisible ultraviolet radiation classified as UVA, UVB and UVC. UVC radiation does not reach Earth’s surface. It is the UVA and UVB wavelengths that are responsible for photoaging.

It is known that by age 25 we have accumulated 90% of the sun-damage we will ever recieve. This may be due to several bad sunburns and many summer vacations. As we age, the damage slowly becomes evident. When exposured to sunlight, the skin produces chemicals called free radicals that destroy tissue. Under an electron-microscope actual DNA damage is visible. This damage slows down cell repair, prevents the skin from holding onto moisture and can impair the skin’s immune system. Collagen and elastin are found deep in the skin. Collagen gives skin strength and elastin provides stretch and resillience. If the damage continues, the collagen and elastin fibers become disorganized in a process called solar elastosis where scar tissue actually replaces normal fibers. This leads to loss of elasticity and a thick wrinkled appearance.

“It is known that by age 25 we have accumulated 90% of the sun damage we will ever recieve.”

Another common sign of sun-damaged skin are ‘age spots’ and freckles. These occur when certain cells produce too much melanin, more evidence of the skin not working properly. Most patients are surprised when we point out that ‘age spots’ only occur on sun-exposed areas and are a result of sun exposure not age. Lastly are vascular changes caused by the skin’s repeated attempts to repair itself. These are seen as broken capillaries or tiny red spots.

There is some good news to all this bad skin: modern dermatology and laser technology can remove or improve the appearance of all these conditions. The best way to prevent damage is by using a broad spectrum sunscreen when outdoors.